Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Weather forecast - How are waves formed?

How are waves formed?

Waves are waves that propagate along a certain direction when the water quality points leave the equilibrium position and vibrate periodically. Therefore, ocean waves are actually wave propagation of energy.

There are three main types of waves, namely, wind waves, swells and nearshore waves. The wave fluctuation period ranges from a few tenths of a second to tens of seconds, the wave height ranges from several centimeters to several tens of meters, and the wavelength ranges from several centimeters to several hundred meters.

Sea surface waves are actually a combination of waves with different wave heights, periods and wave directions. The first 1/3 wave in the combination is called the effective wave, and the average wave height is the effective wave height.

Understand the early warning signals of wave disasters

The release levels of wave warning are blue, yellow, orange and red from low to high. Affected by tropical cyclone or temperate weather system: In the next 24 hours, it is expected that there will be an effective wave height of 2.5 to 3.5 meters (excluding) in the affected coastal waters, and a blue wave warning should be issued.

It is estimated that in the next 24 hours, there will be an effective wave of 3.5 meters to 4.5 meters (excluding) in the affected coastal waters, or an effective wave of 6.0 meters to 9.0 meters (excluding) in the coastal waters, and a yellow wave warning will be issued.

It is estimated that in the next 24 hours, there will be an effective wave height of 4.5 m to 6.0 m (excluding) in the affected coastal waters, or an effective wave height of 9.0 m to 14.0 m (excluding) in the coastal waters, and an orange wave warning should be issued.

It is estimated that in the next 24 hours, there will be an effective wave height of 6.0 meters or 14.0 meters in the affected coastal waters, and a red wave warning will be issued.