Afternoon in Hulunbeier (1)

? "If peace and happiness can't guarantee peace, then why is there peace and happiness?" My fingers gently knead the green, wormwood-scented peace and happiness in my hand, thinking to myself.

? Touch the phone screen again. It will be eleven o'clock in the evening in five minutes. We have been stuck here for five hours. On the first day of my first long trip with Chen Shu, I didn't expect such a "wonderful" ending.

? At dusk, uncle Chen drove his car and carried my luggage. I reluctantly set off from a herdsman's house by the Mozigele River and headed for the Genhe River. We opened the window, played high-spirited songs, and our bodies kept swinging. After sunset, the wind was very cold, and my hand stretched out of the window quickly shrank back, but there was a strong smell of grass and cow dung mixed at my fingertips. The sky in the west turned dark blue with a red ribbon at the bottom, but the sky in the east soon darkened and a dark cloud followed us. Some raindrops rustled on the front window, and dark clouds hung over the car like crows. Chen Shu closed the window and sped up.

? Soon, we got on a bridge and crossed the Mozgler River. After crossing the bridge, a short section of the road is being repaired, and several workers and an excavator are preparing to call it a day. We didn't notice that there was a smooth temporary passage around the side, but went straight to Shidui Road. With several clicks and collisions under the car, our car stuck on the stone like a stranded ship and couldn't move. Chen Shu put a flat stone on the bottom of the tire, and several workers on the side immediately came to help push the cart, but the wheel just turned in place and couldn't get out. I tried it several times, but the car couldn't start at all, and it leaked oil!

? The night is deep and the rain is crazy. Ice rain the size of beans hurts people's faces. Not only that, rain will bring lightning. On the vast black grassland, dark clouds are overwhelming and silent. Suddenly, there was a loud noise in the air. Then, lightning broke out, and the light came out of the clouds, swinging its shining tail across the sky like a sword. We are in trouble. We are strangers in a middle of nowhere. Recall that a few hours ago, the sun was shining, and we were still eating the freshest mutton, holding mutton skewers and riding horses leisurely to the herdsmen's house to find groundhogs. Now I can only sit in the car and try my best to find help. Calling 1 14 is a long official transfer problem. Fortunately, Chen Shu left a coach's WeChat when riding in the pasture in the morning. Through this WeChat, he got the contact information of an auto repair shop owner in Hailar, and found a trailer master who could come to the rescue immediately. However, due to the weather and road conditions, there will be a long waiting time, and the trailer master can't guarantee whether we can pull back to Hailar that night. A hanging heart finally has a little comfort, but Chen Shu has been in contact with friends who know more about how to deal with such incidents, and then got out of the car on a cold night and opened the front cover in the rain to check the situation, which shows that he is still worried. On the other hand, he has to communicate with car rental companies and insurance companies. Sometimes give him a light, sometimes give him an umbrella and do some trivial things. From the accident to now, I have not felt anxious, but feel at ease.

? Except that the direction of the headlights is bright red, the sky around us is full of thunderstorms, but even so, after a heavy rain, lightning exists and the starry galaxy appears. A person eats self-heating hot pot, wrapped in Chen Shu's large down jacket, lying in his seat with unusual satisfaction, leaning against the window to watch the starry sky. In the blue-black sky, there is a purple, which is covered with countless little stars, some of which are scattered and sprinkled on the dark night. I have been staring at the night and found that the more my eyes adapt to the darkness, the more I can see the stars. The extremes of things must be reversed, and the joy is extremely sad. Just like the first morning when I saw the prairie, I was particularly excited to get on the horse, which is not necessarily a good thing. At this time, it is not necessarily a bad thing that the car breaks down in the cold night. It's more comfortable to think like this.

? The trailer skidded on an uphill slope about five kilometers away from us, so it bumped for another hour or so and finally picked us up at midnight at the end of the day. On the way, we were very tired. On the dark road, lightning struck one after another. Uncle Chen is still in charge of chatting with the driver. I was awakened by Chen Shu in a daze. I thought I would arrive soon. It turns out that several white camels are in the middle of the road. They insisted on going their own way until the car was very close, and they ran with one hand and one foot. Uncle Chen asked me, "Do you know the legend of the white camel?"

? "White camel? What legend? "

? "Legend has it that if you get lost in the desert, if you have a single-mountain white camel and follow it, then you can survive. Therefore, the white camel can bring good luck, and it is necessary to be a single mountain. "

? "Single mountain? Is there really? Will it become a myth like a unicorn? "

? "I heard that herders have really seen it!"

? "Then we will have good luck, even if it is twin peaks!"

? The trailer was still skidding along the way, but with rich experience and wisdom, the master drove through a mud pit, and nothing he had been worried about happened. Finally, at about two in the morning, we arrived at the garage and returned to Hailar, the starting point of the first day.

? "White camels can really bring good luck!"

? Sleep.

? In the Aoluguya tribal forest of Genhe River, a dozen giant reindeer are tied to tree trunks for tourists to visit. Uncle Chen and I became a member of buying tickets, eating moss and taking pictures.

? Reindeer also have some similarities, such as antlers, horse face, cow body and sheep hoof. Such animals always have a strong mysterious temperament. Our ancestors always considered deer sacred and endowed them with many beautiful myths and legends. In the west, reindeer pull sleds for Santa Claus, while Ewenki people in Aoluguya domesticate reindeer and help them hunt in the forest, go shopping down the mountain and visit relatives and friends. Nowadays, these reindeer are like valuable but useless ancient objects, being looked at and stroked like animals, without freedom, temperament and soul.

? Soon, we will leave the scenic spot and go to the grocery store to buy popsicles. It happened that a squirrel jumped into the hazelnut box on the stall and stole it. The proprietress drove it away, and it didn't take long for it to be bold again and bring another partner. Seeing that her booth fell down like this, the proprietress was very helpless and grabbed a handful of melon seeds for them.

? "It's very kind of the proprietress to feed them melon seeds!"

? "What can we do? They are a group of hooligans! " The proprietress said with grievance, but her heart was unusually soft and warm.

? People and animals exist in this world, and nature supports us, but what have we brought to nature? Sometimes we are friendly to nature, but more often we are selfish. We rob the resource and make it unrecognizable, but look on coldly when it is in danger, thinking that it can heal itself. As we all know, nature is not sacred, it needs harmony and balance. In order to satisfy the curiosity of foreigners, the reindeer park here breaks the balance between people, nature and animals, while this small grocery store beautifully maintains this balance.

? After starting from Oruguya, we went to Moldoga Forest Park and had lunch in Delpur town on the way. We found a Xing 'an Lu Shen Garden in this small town. After getting to know each other a little, we went. Our car drove from the cement road to a dirt road. Chen Shu was very careful when driving, for fear of another accident. It's more like an ordinary farmhouse, with no convenient roads, no eye-catching house numbers and of course no fame. We bought tickets, a plate of sika deer feed and a plate of moss eaten by reindeer for only half the money in Aoluguya.

? This reindeer park is simple and primitive, with two donkeys, one big and one small, wandering on the gravel road. Among them, the big donkey's belly is swollen like a balloon, which is probably pregnant. In front of the house on the left, several reindeer are grazing. When you see other tourists, you basically go to the reindeer park first. Uncle Chen and I avoided the crowd and teased sika deer first.

? In the deer park, there are several big circles, including sika deer, rabbits and silly roe deer. Animals in captivity are not spiritual, but it can be seen that they are released in batches for the convenience of management. Walking out from the other end of the garden, there is endless grass in front of you, except for a few trees and a man driving a car to mow the grass. It turned out that under the trees in the distance, pairs of deer ears were faintly detected. The sika deer found us long ago, and before they got close, they appeared one by one and ran away.

? "Stop! Uncle Chen, slow down! "

? Chen Shu and I slowed down together, then crept on the food bowl and called them in a language they didn't understand. But they are very alert and either stay put or walk away quietly. At this moment, a bold deer came up to us, craning its neck and sniffing forward. After making sure that we were harmless, it put its head directly into the basin to chew, and its trumpet-shaped ears trembled. We were so surprised that we wanted to touch it with our other hand, but as soon as we touched it, it wriggled and jumped away. We lured it over again, and after several rounds, I managed to touch it. What kind of tactile enjoyment is that? Natural dew makes hair smooth, grass makes hair bright, and they are basked loosely and softly, emitting the breath of sunshine and forest! Sika deer is wearing a very noble and wonderful private service!

? On the reindeer side, there is a strong gray reindeer waiting for us. It turned out that it bowed its head and brushed it. It took the initiative to walk into us and dawdled with Uncle Chen, panting loudly all the time, as if it were coquetry. We know it is greedy, so we feed it, but it is not satisfied at all. It always steals a big piece of moss from the basin. We avoided it and were suddenly attracted by a reindeer with pure white fur. It grazes quietly on a piece of land at a distance from the reindeer herd, just like a fairy in the forest, coming out of a fairy tale, noble and proud.

? We walked over to feed it moss, and it slowly raised its head, stuck out its tongue and gently rolled it into its mouth to chew. At this time, before the reindeer came to grab the food, the white reindeer didn't protect the food at all, even very humble, and bowed their heads and ate weeds.

? I am completely surrounded by it, but I feel a little sorry for it. Because in some animal kingdoms, although this pure white color is very pure and lucky in human eyes, it will be regarded as alien in the eyes of the same kind and thus rejected.

? In the crowd, too, in fact, no one should be wronged, but there are always a few people who have to sacrifice everything to be wronged. These people think they are angels!

? At 7: 30 in the morning, the ringing bell rang, obviously we could sleep in comfortably, but because the innkeeper said that the breakfast service was only from 7: 30 to 8: 00 the night before, with such strict "family rules", we got up on time.

? When the curtains were opened, the sun had woken up at the urging of the crow. The sun spread its arms and shone through the wooden window, making the whole room warm. When the wooden door creaked open, purple and pink Gesanghua jumped in like a baby face. They stretch their bodies heartily and release their fragrance happily. Through the boss's garden, where green vegetables are planted, rape has bright yellow flowers, and then through the yard, dahlias with flowers as big as plates look up again under the touch of the sun, golden and bright red. In addition, there is a green lawn in front of the door, the swing is covered with energetic vines and the young trees are lush. This is a garden carefully cared for by its owner, and it is also a plant kingdom.

? Sure enough, the boss is also very concerned about the tenants. Entering the restaurant, several tables are already enjoying a good meal, and other tables are placed with small plates according to everyone. The boss greeted us to sit down, and then brought steaming rice porridge, milk tea, bread baked by the proprietress, music bar and eggs. Take a sip of thick porridge first, and the bitter mouth and empty abdominal cavity will be filled with warmth immediately. Spread some homemade blueberry sauce on the toast and take a bite. Taste buds will feel the collision between sweetness and sourness, and the whole body and cells will be suddenly awakened. Another cup of fragrant milk tea is extremely satisfying.

? Later, Chen Shu and I wandered around the town. In the street in the early morning, villagers lead horses by from time to time. In the faint morning fog, their whole bodies glistened. I need to rub my eyes and listen to the pounding of hooves to make sure it's true. At this time, two puppies followed us, curious but afraid to approach. We crouched down and called them gently. Their hair fluttered in the breeze, which seemed to blow away their worries, wagging their tails and sticking out their tongues and coming towards us. It is strange that dogs and dogs can easily become friends, dogs and people can easily become friends, but people are always difficult to get along with.

? Shiwei, a branch of Donghu in history, is the ancestor of modern Mongols. Now, it is a beautiful, clean and gradually commercialized border town and a unique China port. If you can walk on the streets of this town in person, there won't be so many rules. It is easy to find that the supermarkets, cake rooms and music bars here are all miniature, and some of them are even used by only one person. At first glance, a bell tower on the main road looks like a water tower. Looking closely, I found that there were clock plates hanging on all sides, and the wedding scene of Han youth and Russian girl was painted on the outer wall. Most of the streets are Russian-style houses. At the end of the street, there is a Little Square, and there is a statue of a fine horse in the square. There is a racetrack on the grass by the river below, across the Ergon River, opposite the Russian village, hidden far between the grass and green trees.

? It's like a lilliputian country. Time has become very brisk, but it is also very orderly. Buildings have the most primitive wood colors, as well as bright red, blue and orange. Women push carts to sell vegetables and seafood in the street. The wild fruits on the fruit stand are different and uneven. Pearl grapes are as big as red beans, and even the street lamps are out at 9: 30 in the evening.