Which dynasty in ancient times had the most beautiful costumes?

Personally, I think it belongs to the Han Dynasty. The curvy deep clothes fully show the slender and graceful figure of women, who are good at dancing with long sleeves and light and lively posture. There are also headdresses such as nine-ring fairy bun and horse-falling bun, which are decorated with slender and exquisite walking hairpins, slender and swaying.

China gechaodai men and women clothing

I. Xia, Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties

Shang dynasty costumes can be roughly divided into three types.

1, simple slave clothes.

Usually a round neck dress, connected from top to bottom, tied with a rope in the middle, not as long as the ankle, and no ornaments on the head.

2, civilians or small slave owners.

Their clothes are more exquisite, and they usually wear clothes on top and dresses on the bottom. The clothes are knee-length, but the back is foot-length, and the waist is tied. There are many patterns on the clothes.

3. Royal nobility.

Gorgeous clothes, exquisite decorative patterns on the bottom of coats, or embroidery or painting. The waist is also tied with a ribbon, and the middle part below the belt is decorated with an axe shape with a narrow upper part and a wide lower part.

The main raw materials of clothes are flax, silk and leather. Linen can be worn by the rich and the poor, but the thickness is different. Silk and leather are mainly used by slave owners and nobles. The embroidery patterns painted on silk clothes are the same as those painted on bronzes, and most of them are Yun Leiwen.

Men's hair accessories in Shang Dynasty were mainly braided. Some put their hair on their heads, some comb their braids on the left and right sides and hang them over their shoulders, and some put their braids on their heads. Women's hair accessories in Shang Dynasty were basically the same as men's, mainly braided hair, but a few of them curled their hair over their shoulders. At the same time, the towel hat also appeared. In Shang dynasty, the form of towel hat was relatively simple, mostly hoop type. Most hair bands are made of animal bones and jade, while hairband is made of silk.

The costumes of the Zhou Dynasty were roughly the same as those of the Shang Dynasty, but looser than those of the Shang Dynasty. Most of them are knee-length, except small sleeve who has big sleeves. The belt around the waist is tied in a bow. There are also many styles of towel hats, including hoop and flat ones. Sharp. Crescent-shaped, convex in the middle and turned over on both sides. Generally speaking, low-level ones are worn by ordinary people, while high-pointed ones are worn by nobles.

Note: People from all walks of life in Shang Dynasty wore narrow sleeves.

Second, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, deep clothing and Hu clothing were popular in the upper class.

1, deep clothes

The deep robe, which is deeply loved by nobles, is a traditional aristocratic uniform since the Western Zhou Dynasty, while civilians think it is a dress, usually wearing short brown. The characteristics of deep clothes are: first, they are connected up and down; Second, there is no difference between male and female styles, and they can all be worn. However, it can be divided into two types: First, the "wide belt" in the Central Plains is comfortable to wear, long without mopping the floor, the hem is not split, elbows can be worn, the sleeves are long, and the waist is tied with a large broadband, which is popular when the nobles in the Central Plains feast. Followed by slender, Chu is the most popular "even hem", which is slender and wider than the north, with thicker fabric as the edge and longer right hem. During the Warring States period, there were sheets, clips, cotton and leather. The collar style of robes broke through the rectangular collar in the Western Zhou Dynasty, and the cross collar style was popular.

2. Khufu

Khufu is easy to ride and shoot, and soldiers of all countries wear it. Khufu gradually became a military uniform during the Warring States Period. It is characterized by coat, trousers, hooks, booties and leather straps. Khufu used to be the uniform of nomadic people in the north. Khufu's coat was worn by laborers, warriors and children in the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, and it was not longer than the knee. There should be a hook on Khufu's waist, which is different from the belt in the Central Plains. Pants replaced the hem of robes and boots replaced shoes.

Hook, called "Stone Wall" and "Xianbei" in ancient times, is the belt decoration of northern nomadic people. The hook is as small as an inch and as big as a ruler, imitating the image of a stick, a bamboo joint and a pipa. Raw materials include jade, iron and copper. Set with precious stones, glass or gold and silver.

Third, the Qin and Han Dynasties

In the Han dynasty, the basic first clothes for men were towels. There are mainly two kinds of towels: medium towels and Mir towels, but the specific styles and colors vary according to people's identity, status, occupation and age. For example, the scarves of emperors and officials at all levels are different according to their colors, and the scarves of civil servants and military attaché s are also different. Civil servants mainly include Dai Jiee, and military officers wear flat scarves. Ministers and servants wear green clothes, military officers wear red clothes, and underage children wear houseless clothes.

Only officials can use the crown hat, which is usually worn on a towel. The main types of crowns are crown, long crown, appearance crown, leather crown, title crown, Tian Tong crown, travel crown, alpine crown, Jinxian crown, Fa crown, Wu crown, Jianhua crown, Fangshan crown, scholar crown, but not crown, but enemy crown, guardian crown and so on. Among them, except for the long crown, most of them are attributed to Zhou Li. These crowns have different uses, such as coronation, long crown and commission.

Appearance crown and skin crown are used for sacrificial ceremonies in suburban communities respectively; The crown of Tian Tong is a royal costume; Traveling far is selfless service; Jinxianguan is a suit of Confucianism; But it is not the clothes crowned as the servants of the palace officials, but the crown of the enemy is the clothes of the guards, and the crown of the knight and Jianhua is the clothes sacrificed by the dancers.

Robe clothes are common clothes for ordinary people in Han Dynasty. There are two main styles: one is a straight robe; Follow the musical style of the Warring States period. Curly robe, unbuttoned, skirt rolled back from armpit, with ribbon around the waist. Wide clothes and big sleeves. Collars and sleeves have soap edges at the beginning. Straight robes were popular in the late Western Han Dynasty. These two styles are common to both men and women.

In the Han Dynasty, it was stipulated that merchants should not wear splendid fabrics, but only linen fabrics.

There is no strict difference between the styles of men's and women's shoes in Han Dynasty. Men are mostly square heads, and women are mostly round heads, but they can be used universally. In daily life, nobles wear silk shoes, not clothes. Because of the cold weather in the north, we wear more leather boots, while the temperature in the south is high and humid, and there are more straw sandals.

Socks in the Han Dynasty are called horn socks. The socks are more than a foot high and have straps on them. When they are put on, they can tighten their mouths to prevent them from falling off.

The jewelry of aristocratic women in the Han Dynasty includes stepping, hairpin, ear, Watson, colorful, and clothes (long hairpin), which are graded according to the length of clothes. Because there are too many gems on the head, the real hair can't bear it, so the fake bun is called "big hand bun" in Han Dynasty.

Noble women often wear skirts. In addition, there are hanging robes, which are also costumes for banquets. They are inclined robes, and the inclined width of the upper part hangs beside the clothes as decoration.

Working women's clothes are usually simple, without jewelry, which is convenient for labor, and often short clothes and shorts. Generally, women's hair styles are mostly unadorned open buns. Split your hair, comb it flat, do it backwards, hang it behind your head, and aristocratic women tie it in a high bun.

Women in the Han dynasty already had facial makeup, including heavy makeup and light makeup, as well as strange makeup. When Emperor Hengdi was in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the general's wife, Han Shou, created her own sad makeup, with a thin figure with eight eyebrows, a broken ponytail, a crooked step and a grin, which was contrary to the popular wide eyebrows and high bun, and was called sad makeup.

Fourth, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties

The costumes of the Three Kingdoms and the Western Jin Dynasty are basically the same as those of the Eastern Han Dynasty. However, since the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the pursuit of so-called romantic release has led to the development of bulky clothes in a broader direction.

Some headdresses wear scarves, some wear small crowns, and some wear big crowns in the late Southern Dynasties. Towels were originally worn by ordinary people before the Han Dynasty, and some celebrities began to use them in the late Eastern Han Dynasty and Wei and Jin Dynasties, so they became popular. The small crown is generally hollow and can be tied into a vertebral bun. The small crown and bun are fixed from the back with a hairpin, which was developed by the plain towel in the Han Dynasty.

In this period, women's clothing has developed from deep clothes in Han Dynasty to clothes separation, and clothes under clothes have become the mainstream. In the Jin Dynasty, there were also short coats and long skirts. Some skirts are exposed to the waist, which is called "upper inspection and lower abundance" in history books.

In the north, after the late Sixteen Kingdoms period, Khufu became very popular, and its main features were tight-fitting, narrow sleeves and slit. Because it is very convenient to move, it is deeply loved by Han working people.

Headdresses commonly used in the north, except for small crowns, towels and felt hats. When towels developed to the Northern Zhou Dynasty, they were often made of three-foot soap filaments, which were called "folded towels" and were actually hoes in the future.

Five, sui and Tang dynasties costumes (58 1 ~ 907)

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stable by war and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, whether it is material or style, presents an unprecedented brilliant scene. Colorful brocade is a kind of silk woven with various colors and patterns, which is often used as half-arm and collar clothing. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors. Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns can be divided into multicolor overprint dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades, and patterns to indicate official ranks. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties was full of fashion flavor, which often developed from palace women's clothing to folk, and was imitated in succession, and was often influenced by northwest nationalities.

The most fashionable women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties was short skirt, that is, long skirt with short coat, and the waist of the skirt was tied with silk ribbon, almost reaching the armpit. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied as a chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk. Women's hair accessories in Tang Dynasty are various, each with its own name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of splendid fabrics, colored silks and leather. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. During the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan, new Hu clothes were very popular.

Six, Song Liao Xia Jinyuan clothing (947 ~ 1368)

The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han costumes, while the costumes of Liao, Xixia, Jinyuan and other dynasties had the characteristics of Qidan, Tangut, Jurchen and Mongolian respectively. National costumes are once again exchanged and integrated. There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes. Due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, the government gave the pro-expensive ministers robes in seven different colors every year. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine. The style of official dress is similar to that of long-sleeved official dress in late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress (crown hat, etc.). ) It is already a flat-winged black silk hat, named Straight Foot, which has been customized. The official clothes of the Song Dynasty followed the system of wearing fish in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet official uniforms must tie a "fish bag" around their waist, which contains fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. "Curved collar in the square" is also a feature of the imperial costume, that is, the ornaments under the circle are placed on the items of the imperial costume. In addition to official clothes and uniforms, the daily casual clothes of officials in Song Dynasty are mainly small sleeve round neck shirts and soft-winged hoes, which are still in Tang style, but their feet are replaced with casual shoes that are more convenient for daily life. The representative costumes of the old people in the Song Dynasty are wide-body robes and large-sleeved Dongpo towels. The robe was edged with dark cloth to keep the ancient style. Dongpo towel is a square tube-shaped towel, which was created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. In fact, it is the revival of ancient towels, which were often worn by old gentry in the Ming Dynasty. Folk first clothes were also very popular in Song Dynasty. Men are popular with hoes and scarves, while women are popular with crowns and hijabs. Women's hair style and corolla were the focus of people's pursuit of beauty at that time, which best reflected the changes of clothing in Song Dynasty. The crown of women in Tang and Five Dynasties has become more and more dangerous, and the crown of women in Song Dynasty has further developed and changed. Usually put a flower and bird comb on the bun, and there is no surprise. Liao, Xixia and Jin were regimes established by the Khitan, Tangut and Jurchen in ancient China, and their costumes reflected the development track of their respective national traditions in long-term cultural exchanges with the Han nationality. Tangut women wear Hu clothes with lapels and the neckline is beautifully embroidered. Khitan and jurchen usually wear long coats and boots with narrow sleeves and knees, which are suitable for hunting immediately; Women wear long gowns with narrow sleeves and collars, and they are all left-handed. Contrary to the Han people, the fishing piers they used to wear are widely popular in the mainland. Considering the reality of living together with the Han nationality, the Liao and Jin regimes set up the system of "Southern Officials", ruled the Han nationality in China together with the Han nationality, and adopted the old system of official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties for Han officials. In Liao dynasty, the embroidery patterns of flowers, birds and animals on silk official uniforms were used to distinguish official products, which affected the grade identification of official uniforms in Ming and Qing dynasties. In the Jin Dynasty, the rank was determined by the size of the flowers on the official clothes, and the lowest rank was sesame without grains or small diamond grains. The men's wear of Khitan and Jurchen is also adopted by Han people because it is easy to move. In the first year of Yanyou in Yuan Dynasty (13 14), considering the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese costume systems, uniform regulations were made on the colors of official and civilian costumes. In the Han dynasty, the official uniforms were mostly Tang-style round collars and hoes; Mongolian officials wear collared clothes and square corrugated hats; In order to facilitate galloping at once, the most popular thing in the middle and lower classes is the braided waist (round neck tight sleeve robe, wide hem, pleated waist). Please delete the subtitle of the forbidden novel. In the Yuan Dynasty, various textiles appeared, such as Nashiya Gold, Mixed Gold Zigzag, Jindianzi, Douluojin, Sanling, Dasi, Suu, Nansi, Beisi, Hibiscus and Fanjin. During the Yuan Dynasty, there were 10 many times a year. At that time, thousands of officials wore high-grade dresses with the same color and style and decorated with gems and jewels, which was called high-quality sun clothes, which was rare in past dynasties. In the Ming dynasty, this kind of clothing was used as a police costume.

Seven, Ming and Qing dynasties clothing (1368 ~1911)

In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costumes of Han nationality were the main body, while in the Qing Dynasty, Manchu costumes were the mainstream. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius had "evil purple to take Zhu also", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and one on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. Usually, T-shirts are distinguished by the length of clothes and the size of sleeves, and the old ones are the most respected. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded towels, and the wings of his hat stood up from behind. The official robe wears lacquered yarn with spreading wings and often wears his duties. The wives and mothers of the banned officials also have red big sleeve dresses with different stripes and decorations and various summer shawls. In addition, high heels have been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid being mixed with official clothes and customs. Working people are only allowed to use brown. Apart from the old hats that have been popular since the Tang and Song Dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, which were promulgated throughout the country and used by ordinary people. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called a square nipple; One is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means equality in all countries and unity in the world. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the regulations on wearing colorful epaulettes were promulgated, abolishing the crown clothes with strong colors in China. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing dynasty, I wore a thin horseshoe-cuff arrow suit and tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different. The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. A jacket is a coat added to a robe, named after it originated from riding a jacket. It is characterized by a slit at the front and back, and a blue chest (disc for the king of Prince Edward County). Buzi's bird and beast patterns and order are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. The official hats of the Qing dynasty are completely different from those of previous dynasties. Military and political personnel above non-commissioned officers and officers wear weft hats that look like hats, which are divided into warm hats and cool hats according to winter and summer seasons. They were also dressed in "coats" of different colors and materials, and a bunch of peacock feathers were dragged behind their hats. Ling is called Hualing. There are "eyes" (round spots on feathers) on the senior ling, which can be divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes. More eyes are more expensive, and only princes or ministers with outstanding achievements are rewarded. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as the influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors have gradually become popular among officials and gentry, and become ordinary costumes. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk weaving, embroidery, printing and dyeing and various manual occupations created conditions for the richness of clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them. Manchu women wear "flag clothes", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two ends) and wear "flowerpot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so-called cheongsam circulated in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies of the Han nationality.