What should I do if the camellia leaves fall off?

There are many reasons, and I don't know which one has the greatest influence. Look at the following article, I hope it will help you.

Talking about the Maintenance of Camellia

I began to like camellia when I was in primary school, because I peeked at Jin Yong's Eight Dragons. It happened that my mother was on a business trip in Dali, Yunnan. Through the relationship of the army, I got the seedlings that were regarded as treasures of camellia at that time. Such as: flower Buddha's top, big agate, hate sky high, eighteen bachelors, boy's face, purple robe, lion's head and so on. After careful care and constant letter harassment from Uncle Camellia Yunnan, several pots finally blossomed. Later, due to school, moving and other reasons, I stopped raising it. About five years ago, under the impact of the introduction of foreign varieties (but the ancestors of camellia were still in China), they began to raise camellia again. But I'm glad to see that so many camellia lovers like camellia now. Are you also influenced by Duan Yu in Eight Dragons or are the flowers really beautiful? ) I saw many flower friends asking questions about how to raise camellia, hoping to help you ... Let me introduce my experience in raising camellia and consulting experts and some excerpts for your friends who like camellia to discuss together.

Basic goods

I. Soil

As we all know, camellia is suitable for growing in slightly acidic soil, and its PH value is between 5.5 and 6.5. It is not suitable for planting camellia in alkaline soil, cohesive soil and waterlogged land. Camellia planted in acidic or alkaline soil has poor growth and development. Red yellow soil in the south, chernozem in the north, and humus soil (mountain mud) on the hillside are usually slightly acidic. But try not to use river mud, because the river water pollution is more serious now. Interested friends can go to the chemical store to buy PH test paper to test it, or if your camellia leaves gradually turn green and yellow, it means that your camellia soil is alkaline. You can dilute it with ferrous sulfate according to the above instructions, and then stop using it until it returns to green.

Second, sunshine.

Without light, not only can not produce photosynthesis, can not carry out life activities, but also it is impossible to produce large and colorful flowers. Camellia leaves have phototropism, which requires both sunlight and strong light, so there should be sufficient diffuse light. The most taboo is to burn leaves due to long-term exposure to the hot sun. In summer, when the temperature is above 35 degrees (it is recommended to block it with a grid).

Dripping water:

* I like to use sunshade net (or transparent bamboo mat), which can prevent the sun from exposure and get about 25% direct light. But don't forget to spray water around the leaves and camellia to cool down (as described below).

* Shading nets are sold in some flower markets, that is, black ones with holes on them.

Third, temperature.

Camellia blooms at the temperature of 15 ~ 25℃, which requires sufficient water and nutrients. The growth rate slows down above 35℃. Camellia is relatively cold-resistant, and it is generally not a big problem at -7℃. I brought it into the house when it froze at -5℃, but I can't directly bring it into a room with higher temperature (discussed later). Generally, planting camellias is more frost-resistant, but I don't have much experience in planting camellias in the field. I only know that it is easier to cultivate camellia in the field than potted plants, and it is generally safe for winter. Often after the whole winter, camellia can produce bigger and more beautiful flowers than camellia in greenhouse. This is vernalization (discussed later)

Fourth, water.

Water directly affects the growth and development of camellia, and is the lifeblood of camellia. Because water is the raw material of photosynthesis and the main component of cell protoplasm, and through the transpiration of water, it can also regulate the body temperature of camellia. If there is too much water, camellia will grow white, inhibit flower bud differentiation, and even cause root rot or soaking death; If there is too little water, camellia will wither again, and normal life activities cannot be carried out. Because camellia grows luxuriantly or is potted, the water absorbed by roots often can't meet the supplementary needs of water lost by evaporation on the ground. In order to keep the water balance of camellia, it is necessary to water it frequently. Potted camellia, in particular, needs special attention, and the pot soil should be dry in winter. This is because the growth of camellia in winter enters a dormant period, and the physiological water demand is reduced. In addition, it is too humid in winter, which is easy to cause the basin soil to freeze and damage the root system. Pot soil should be wet in summer. This is because summer is a hot and dry season, and it is also a period of vigorous growth of camellia, which requires a lot of water. Watering time should be in the morning and afternoon in spring and autumn; The temperature is too high at noon in summer, it should be early morning and evening. In winter, it should be noon when the temperature is high. In hot and dry weather, water 2 ~ 3 times a day to ensure the normal growth and development of camellia.

Verb (abbreviation for verb) fertilization

Camellia needs sufficient fertilizer to make it flourish and have certain ornamental value. However, if compound fertilizer is applied and the contents of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are 26%, 20% and 20% respectively, it is especially suitable for the growth and development of flowers. Nitrogen fertilizer can promote the growth of camellia and form lush plants; Phosphate fertilizer can promote the bright color and developed root system of camellia. Potassium fertilizer can promote the growth and health of camellia and the development of root system, which is beneficial to overwintering. It should also be noted that in different growth stages of camellia, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium fertilizer and various trace element fertilizers should be applied in a timely, appropriate and appropriate manner to achieve good results. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed before application, and it is generally based on the principle of small amount and multiple fertilization. More nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in March before spring shoots germinate; In June of flower bud formation, more phosphate fertilizer should be applied; More phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied in September and after bud formation and flowering. Fertilization interval should not be less than 10 ~ 15 days.

Dripping water:

* Don't like human excrement, animal excrement, etc. Except for the smell, the main reason is that the concentration is not easy to master.

* Fermented rice washing water has little taste. The advantage is that it is weakly acidic, and the main nitrogen-containing elements are beneficial to the growth of branches and leaves. Use it after dilution. Do not water it directly.

* Stop fertilizing before flowering.

Experience article

The following are some experiences of me and other Camellia masters in raising Camellia.

First, the most taboo is to change places frequently.

Camellia conservation needs a relatively stable growth environment. After choosing a location, generally don't move easily (unless the weather is bad and you have to move). Camellia naturally grows in a stable environment. On the other hand, if you put it on the balcony today and indoors tomorrow, if you want to bask in the sun, put it in the sun. If the temperature is too high, you move it to a dark place, so that the camellia will be squeezed dry quickly and will only be thrown away. In fact, camellia is most afraid of high and low temperature, strong light and weak light, forcing it to adapt to the environment frequently, and naturally it will feel tired and grow badly. In fact, if camellias are maintained adaptively under light, they should be exposed to the sun slowly in spring to adapt to the growth in the sun. Sudden changes in yin and yang, especially under strong light, will naturally burn the leaves and make them grow badly. It is best to "fix two things" in the conservation of camellia, namely, a fixed position and a fixed direction (of course, this fixation is relative). In order to prevent camellia from growing to one side after the direction is determined, the direction can be changed in the same place after a period of time, but the interval should not be too short, preferably 1 month. Minimize the impact as much as possible.

* Take care of yourself, even if people often let you adapt to the new environment, you can't stand the working environment and living environment, which is north in the morning and south in the afternoon.

Second, water the pot soil when it is dry.

Water is forbidden in summer. In hot and high temperature summer, evaporation is fast, metabolism is vigorous, and basin soil dries quickly. If watering is not complete at this time, the lower roots are in a state of water shortage, and the roots will gradually shrink and dry up, losing the function of absorbing nutrients and water. So water in summer should be watered once in the morning. If you find it dry at night, you should water it again. Even around the hot noon, if you find something particularly dry, you should break the rule that you can't water it at noon, not only watering it, but also watering it thoroughly. Only the method of watering is particular: "first move to the shade, spray water on the branches and leaves of the plant, and then pour enough water when the branches and leaves stand up."

Dripping water:

* Some flower friends wait for rain when they hear that it is going to rain, and the branches and leaves are still waiting for rain. As a result, it didn't rain that day or it rained too late the next day without watering, the drooping leaves couldn't come back, and the fine roots had dried up.

* If the rain doesn't penetrate, you have to water it again. If the soil in the basin is permeable, there will be no water in the rain basin in the next few days.

Third, fertilization-don't think about eating a fat man in one bite.

Camellia likes being fat, but it is also afraid of being fat. Many flower friends died of camellia because of improper fertilization and fertilizer damage. Camellia is hard to digest, so it is better to eat less and more. I'm just a little less than the proportion in the fertilizer manual, so I can fertilize at shorter intervals. But at least five to seven days apart. The symptoms of camellia are late, and when you see that it has problems, it is already late. If there is less fertilizer, the branches and leaves are not lush enough or the flowers are not big enough and bright enough. If you burn all the roots, it will be very troublesome, and there is often nothing to do. Because this process is generally irreversible. Therefore, it is impossible to "eat a fat man in one bite".

4. Camellia is very sensitive to temperature

Camellia is very sensitive to room temperature. If there is heating in the room, the temperature is very high, and then the direct sunlight will definitely make the camellia stiff and even the leaves will die. Flower friends in the north should pay more attention. In winter in the north, the room is heated, and the room temperature is generally 20℃. If the weather is fine and there is direct sunlight, the balcony is closed in the south, and sometimes the room temperature can reach 30℃. When the temperature outside is very low and it is necessary to move indoors, it must be given a slow buffer time. Never put it directly indoors with such a large temperature difference, otherwise you should know the consequences.

Dripping water:

* There is a flower friend in the north. In winter, Nanyang Station turns off the heating and puts camellias. Cover his bedroom and south balcony with cotton curtains.

* heating facilities generally cannot be changed casually. If possible, you can put it in a room with a lower temperature and open more windows. The temperature difference with the outdoor is about 2-4℃. Generally, it takes more than 15 days to buffer slowly. As mentioned above, it should be given time and space to gradually adapt to the environment.

* If the above conditions do not allow, cover it with plastic film. However, the plastic film must be propped up with bamboo sticks or iron wires to prevent the plastic film from touching the leaves and flower buds, because camellia will be covered with plastic film, which will generate moisture (increase humidity) and freeze at night when the temperature is too low, so that camellia will not be hurt. If you can, you can also wrap the flowerpot with straw mats, rags and rotten cotton. I saw a flower friend do it. Very funny, but very useful.

Fifth, give it fresh air-ventilation.

Now the air quality in cities is relatively poor (especially in houses near industrial cities or industrial areas), so leaves should be washed. Use a soft brush (I use a big sheep brush) or a sprayer, which will not only look clean and shiny, but also remove harmful particles and dust from the leaves and let them breathe freely.

Sealing windows to keep out the cold in winter is also the key to prevent the stiff buds and flowers of domestic camellia, so it is necessary to open windows frequently for ventilation. Open the window every morning and evening to get some air, preferably for ten minutes at a time.

Dripping water:

* Try not to smoke indoors. After the window is closed, the smoke can't run away, which will be bad for camellia;

* Don't put camellia in kitchen, toilet and other dirty places to prevent oil dirt and gas poisoning;

* Don't "stuffy" camellia in the newly renovated room;

* I want to ventilate once a day in winter; Just open the windows in the south, north and east (my home faces east) once. My name is Big Breath.

Six, pests and diseases-the key lies in prevention.

I don't want to say more about this. These articles can be found online. Or "free" access to the bookstore.

Ordinary camellias don't bother bugs very much. If there is, I always take my thumb and forefinger-pinch it to death. If pesticides must be used, they must be used according to the instructions.

The problems caused by some germs in camellia cannot be treated at all. For example, the disease of dead branches is hopeless. The key is prevention. Sterilization drugs are generally used in spring, especially around the rainy season. Because bacteria breed in a warm and humid environment. Generally, germs will float to camellia with the airflow, and some camellia itself carries bacteria, but the time has not yet arrived.

Dripping water:

* Don't spray water on the leaves when the air humidity is too high (> 60%), especially in spring and summer, which is the favorite environment for germs. Use correctly according to the instructions of sterilized drugs.

* I won't trim it in spring. If I want to trim, I'd better apply preservative to the wound.

* If you don't want to use the medicine according to the method mentioned above, it is recommended to buy a regular manufacturer or a well-known one. At present, many kinds of pesticides on the market are counterfeit (as are sterilization drugs). Would rather spend more money.

I'm thinking about buying a balance, because I really don't know what 30 grams is. The Japanese (although I hate Japanese goods) have a small spoon in their bag, which says a spoonful of 30 grams. How nice, unlike domestic manufacturers who don't know what people-oriented means. Of course, I can't estimate, probably, I'm afraid that drugs will hurt my roots, leaves and buds!

* I have a hygrometer, mainly to master the humidity. Not expensive either, 15 won.

Seven, vernalization

There are many flower lovers whose camellias are not big, or whose big flowers have fallen off before they are seen. One of the main reasons is the insufficient transition period of vernalization.

The so-called vernalization means that flower buds can only bloom after a period of low temperature or short sunshine, otherwise they will not fully develop and mature. The vernalization temperature and time of camellia vary with varieties. Generally, the low temperature of -3℃~5℃ is needed, and it can be 10-20 days or more. The vernalization time of early flowering varieties can be shorter and the temperature can be higher. Late flowering varieties need longer vernalization time and lower temperature. If your camellia is transferred back in September-165438+ 10, it will immediately enter the high-temperature greenhouse, which will stop the vernalization process and lead to the flower bud development stop or incomplete bud falling. Therefore, when transferring camellias, it is necessary to ensure that camellias have a complete vernalization process in the local area, so that after a period of low temperature (gradual cooling), camellias can maintain a minimum temperature of 0~2℃ and a maximum temperature of 5 ~ 7℃ for more than 20 days, and then gradually raise the temperature to a minimum temperature of 8~ 10℃ and a maximum temperature of/kloc-. Many families put them indoors for the winter. On the one hand, the high indoor temperature causes insufficient vernalization, on the other hand, the light is seriously insufficient, which leads to nutrient consumption, and the indoor humidity is too low, which is easy to cause falling flowers and buds. The prevention and control measures are as follows: firstly, after low-temperature vernalization, put it in a place with direct light indoors, cover the flowerpot with plastic film and humidify it until it blooms.

* You can simply understand that camellia needs to gradually cool down and warm up, and keep proper humidity and sunshine. Camellia likes slightly acidic soil, with a general PH of 5-6. If the soil is sticky, it will accumulate water due to poor drainage, which will make the roots black and rot, the leaves fall off, and even the whole plant die. Therefore, it is best to water the flowers with stored rainwater in summer, or to change the water quality with cold boiled water and 0. 1 ~ 1% ferrous sulfate. In addition, water thoroughly, so that the soil in the basin is wet and clear, and a little alum fertilizer can be poured every seven to ten days to promote the vigorous growth of leaves.