What do climbers mean by rope distance and rope distance difficulty?

Commonly used in Alps and Canadian mountains. For the multi-rope-distance route, the difficulty of the whole route is explained according to technicality, unreliability, rock quality, exposure and danger.

F-Easy (simple)

PD- modern difficulty (Peu difficulty) (OK)

Quite difficult (Assez difficult) (a little difficult)

D-difficult (difficult) (difficult)

TD- Very different (very different) (very difficult)

Ed- limit differential (limit differential) (very difficult)

Terrible (hateful) (terrible)

ED+ extremely difficult climbing environment with long duration.

The rating system adopted by the North American system and the Alps accounts for about three-quarters of the world's ice climbing activities, which is also recommended by American climber Jeff Lowe. NCCS defines multi-rope distance routes according to the route difficulty and the time required for technical climbing. It includes two numbers, such as II-5. The first number (Roman numeral) stands for "severity", representing remoteness, climbing length, difficulty of descent, danger and route continuity. "I" means that there is only one rope by the roadside, but "VI" requires rich mountaineering experience. Unless you are a top climber with fast climbing speed, camping is inevitable; The second number (Arabic numeral) stands for "technical level" and represents the technical difficulty of the most difficult part of the route. Vertical state, guarantee difficulty, ice type and rope distance duration are also counted.

I- Need 1-2 hours (one to two hours)

II-half a day required (half a day)

III-It takes most of the day (almost one day)

IV-It takes a long day (all day)

V- Need to stay overnight on the route (at least two days)

VI-How many days (days)

VII-Adventure (adventure level, at least ten days and a half)

Mixed rock and ice mixed terrain evaluation system

This is an inductive description system, which is mainly used in Colorado where ice and rocks are mixed to climb, and supported by Jeff Lowe. The technical level is preceded by the letter "M", and "M5" means "5" equal to pure ice, but it includes dry climbing and similar skills.

Grade 6 ice (grade 7)

Grade 1: Flat ice, and you can only walk on it with crampons; Short-distance climbing by the roadside is safe and easy to go down the mountain.

Grade II: The short ice slope (step) is more than 80 degrees, the whole ice slope is gentle, 50-60 degrees, and the distance between points is small. The ice with a single rope distance of 60-70 degrees contains a few short and steep steps to ensure safety; The distance of one or two ropes, where traffic is easy to reach, is a bit dangerous, and it is easy to climb or fall.

Level 3: Ice lasting 70 to 80 degrees, usually thick and hard, may contain short cliffs, but there is a good rest point to ensure safety; The overall ice slope reaches 80 degrees, but there are small steps to stand on. Ensure that the point is relatively stable; At low altitude, the distance between several ropes may take several hours. You need to walk or ski for a certain distance, have good travel experience in cold areas, occasionally get frostbite, and usually hang it with you.

Level 4: The ice lasts for 75-85 degrees, and the well-protected areas are scattered with a few obvious vertical areas. Usually, ice is of good quality and can provide good protection. Some ice walls are vertical, the route is relatively complicated, and there are thin ice or rock sections; The altitude is high, the rope distance is long, and it may be in a sparsely populated place, requiring travel experience in mountaineering and cold areas, and may encounter avalanches or falling rocks. It is difficult to descend, so it may be necessary to use artificial fixed-point descent.

Level 5: There are many hard rope knots on the ice wall of 85 to 90 degrees, which is almost the skill and ability needed to climb 5.9. The rope distance is long and steep, and there is almost no comfortable foothold. Setting up security points requires high skill; Climbing the mountain wall for a long distance requires superb ability and cost, and it will encounter avalanches or bad weather. It may take a long distance and it is difficult to go down the mountain.

Grade 6: It is steep, and there is no difficult rope distance at the rest. Pause frequently to ensure that the ice quality is not good and the safety is in doubt. Very demanding skills, almost the ability to climb 5. 10. The whole rope distance is completely vertical, so it is difficult to set a guarantee point. Long-distance climbing and multi-rope climbing can only be completed by top climbers in one day, and there may be transportation and replenishment problems in cold climbing.

Grade 7: Almost vertical ice wall, very thin, with poor ice quality. I don't know if it is attached to the rock, so it is not easy or impossible to protect it. It's about climbing skills. 5. 12, vertical thin ice or ice eaves, the ice surface is not strong. The guarantee point is unreliable (anti-icing is basically unavailable); The largest and most difficult mountain in the Himalayas (defined by Jeff Lowe).

Slope difficulty level

Classification of climbing difficulty in mountaineering. Divided into three levels:

(1) Simple. A hillside that can be climbed with only two feet.

(2) slightly difficult. Besides feet, you need to borrow hands to climb the hillside.

(3) difficult. Climbing a hillside requires all kinds of ropes and climbing equipment besides limbs. From the second level, climbers must have certain mountaineering knowledge and master some basic climbing techniques, such as three-beat climbing, zigzag climbing and special terrain climbing.

I made a list. Maybe these will help you.

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