What is a second exposure?

Secondary exposure is an opportunity shooting technique. You can shoot with a 135mm camera, which is easy to master. All you have to do is shoot the whole film, and don't bother to remember what you shot. Then, rewind the tape and still take another picture with this film. Black-and-white and color films can be used for shooting. The only thing to note is that the picture taken for the second time must completely coincide with the image taken for the first time. But we can do it.

Image location

The secret of image positioning lies in how you install the film. First of all, you should close the shutter before loading the film (be sure to close the shutter) and turn the reel with your fingers. Secondly, find an obvious but small mark on the back of the camera next to the film, and then use a ballpoint pen to make a mark on the film that is aligned with the mark. It is difficult to align the marks on the film with those on the back of the camera. When rewinding the second film, fix the shutter so that the mark is aligned with the mark on the film. This is the method of image positioning.

When you rewind the tape for the first time, you should be careful not to let the title get involved in the tape. For example, when you learn to rewind movies with your ears. You will hear the sound of the film falling from the reel, which tells you to stop rewinding.

If the positioning of the frame is not ideal, you should remember that sometimes images that deviate from the positioning are also interesting. Although I have been operating strictly according to this rule, I have also deviated from the positioning, and I don't know why.

Exposure; expose

Since the film will be exposed twice, don't expose it all at once, but reduce the exposure by half. The easiest way is to double the speed of ASA and set the correction exposure on the exposure table. With this exposure method, each negative can be completely exposed, because twice half exposure equals one exposure.

contrast

You may find that most of your negatives are a little flat (low contrast), but this defect can be easily corrected by local contrast paper or printing filter. However. Some negatives will show greater contrast than ordinary negatives, depending on the position of the ghost. Strengthen the overlap of double light and strong light, and shadow and shadow overlap, then you will get worse photos.

Although according to the general rule, the contrast of the film you shot is smaller than that of the normal film, you should not increase the contrast by increasing the development time, because you can deal with the contrast when developing. Prolonging the development time will increase the particles, which is sometimes obvious.

Simple.

When choosing ghost themes, you should look for those with simple shapes. Because the shot images presented on the second exposure film are all overlapping, if two complex subjects are selected, there will often be too many images on the film.

Tone distribution

If the tone distribution of your subject is normal, you can get a good second exposure effect. That is to say, the tone of the main body mostly has a strong light and shadow middle tone. If the subject is mostly in strong light tone, then the effect of secondary exposure is usually not very good, if the subject is mostly in shadow tone. The effect will not be very good. The strong light of large blocks in the subject will make most of the secondary exposure images blank, while the subject with large shadows lacks recognizable scenery and cannot be shown in the secondary exposure.

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